Friday, February 9, 2018

Visit to Independence Palace and the War Remnants Museum


We finally got to sleep in and get over the last of our jetlag. I was able to do my laundry in the morning, which at TDTU meant carrying my laundry over to the dorms where for USD $2, my laundry would be washed, dried, and folded for me.

After grabbing a quick bite we then headed to the heart of Saigon where we first visited Independence Palace. This was the home and headquarters for the South Vietnam president during the Vietnam War (similar to the White House). The inside held many extravagant bedrooms, conference rooms, a cinema, an underground bunker, and tourists. People were allowed on the roof to see where the North was able to drop two bombs that signaled the start of the end for South Vietnam.

Meeting room in the Independence Palace
Afterwards, we were all starving so we found one our new favorite shops to get snacks—the Circle K! The Bánh mì there was delicious: toasted bread and a freshly cooked egg all for just VND 10.000 (~USD $0.50).

Chowing down our haul from the Circle K

Feeling refreshed, we then headed to the War Remnants Museum. We weren't prepared for what we would encounter inside.

A quick note- the next paragraph talks about our experience in the museum; although many of the exhibits were very graphic, I tried not to be too explicit in my descriptions, but skip the next paragraph if it might upset you. Also, I think it is important to note that North Vietnam did win the war against the South and that the communist party currently controls Vietnam. Therefore, everything we saw will always put the current government in a positive light. It is all very real and highlights the negativities of war, but it is also in-your-face and upfront for a reason.

The first thing you see as you enter the first exhibit is a guillotine. Then you see the cages about two feet off the ground, covered with barbed wire. And then there are the photographs of the various survivors missing limbs and features. This set the tone for the museum very quickly. Included was a list of torture methods used in these prisons.

Already shocked by the upfront and graphic nature, we stumbled into the main building which held several exhibitions of the atrocities of the war. There was a section that outlined several of the massacres that both South Vietnam and US troops committed during the war. There were several artifacts, including the sewer pipe from the Thạnh Phong massacre (please read up on the many massacres from the war such as the Mỹ Lai massacre or Thạnh Phong massacre). There was also an exhibition on Agent Orange and its harmful effects on the civilian population. For four generations and onwards, Vietnamese citizens (and US troops and their children) have had a plethora of birth defects and symptoms. The chemicals have had numerous effects; from deformed limbs to skin disease, to all types of cancer. The displayed pair of Agent Orange-affected fetuses especially drove home the point of how inhumane chemical weapons are. The museum also displayed the numerous protests in the US and around the world which called for peace and stability.

Front of the War Remnants Museum

Seeing the evidence and reading the descriptions of the human brutality while standing in the country they occurred was a very sobering experience. At the end of one of the exhibits, there was a quote from Robert McNamara (former US Secretary of Defense) that talked about making sure future generations learned from the mistakes and tragedies that occurred. I believe everyone should learn about both sides of the war in Vietnam to ensure it never happens again. But as Lexi pointed out, there was a similar quote at the end of the Holocaust museum; yet just forty years ago, and even today, these horrific human tragedies keep occurring. It is up to us to put an end to it, to be able to say NO, even when it is hard—especially when it is hard.

Feeling the need to decompress, we found a coffee shop in the area where we were able to chat about everything from income inequality and systemic issues in capitalism to simulation theory and Elon Musk. We ended off the day with a visit to one of our favorite cat-populated vegetarian restaurants (yes, we are all slowly becoming vegetarian). Full of good food, it was a nice way to end our first weekend in Saigon. —Nate

Trip to the Mekong Delta

The day began with our small band of students, American and Vietnamese alike, pack unceremoniously into a small van on our way to the Mekong Delta. After a relatively quiet bus ride, as nearly everyone slept the entire trip, stepping out into the humid and heavy air was an overwhelming sensation when it was paired with the spectacular view of the river. We were all buzzing with excitement to step on the boat and enter the jungle islands that loomed in the distance. The boat ride was positively jolly, with the tour guide animatedly describing what life Is like on the island and all of the sights we will see. What obviously caught our attention was all the tasty treats we would get to try. I remember the mood significantly elevating at the mention of the possibility of tasting freshly made, hot coconut candy.

After the boat ride, we found ourselves on a touristy, but entertaining horse-and-cart ride with Duong’s (one of the Vietnamese students) commentary on the rather precocious and “evil” horse that wouldn’t let her pet him. The horse ride took us through a dusty path, leading through what appeared to be a small village.

There were sweet-smelling fruits and flowers hanging over our heads as we passed down the path with small pastures surrounded by deep marshes on both sides. At our first stop, we found ourselves seated under a shady and cool veranda and we were promptly handed steaming cups with sweet and delicious Jasmine tea flavored with fresh kumquat and a local honey. I did not hesitate to claim a bottle of the amber liquid for myself. We found ourselves often holding out our cups asking for second and third refills. My day was made when I got to hold a real live boa! Its smooth and scaly skin did not phase me in the slightest, although I was not too keen on it slithering up my arm to lean in for a snake-y kiss.

The next stop was the long-awaited hot coconut candy. We watched as the tour guide, in the blink of an eye, husked the coconut and threw the white, sweet-smelling flesh into an ancient-looking machine. He showed us that the white, edible part of the coconut was crushed, then mixed with water and boiled so that the natural sugars would caramelize and thicken the candy texture. When it cooled just enough, we watched a woman mix in chocolate, peanuts, and other fruits into the coconut candy batter and roll them into bite-sized samples for the tour guide to hand out. Mind you, I have never been a fan of the flavor, smell or even the texture of coconut in the States, but I can say that this small piece of subtly sweet, creamy and aromatic candy has changed my mind about this humble fruit.


Delicious coconut candy being made
Our final food stop found us at a different veranda with short stone tables and an abundance of fresh and local fruits like jackfruit, dragonfruit, mangoes, pineapples, and pomelos. After that, we trekked along the beaten path to come across to the river tour of the Mekong Delta. From the steep stairs, we could see around half a dozen boats ready to take us down the muddy and dense jungle river. Though this leg of the journey had a touristy feel, it was a breathtaking experience nonetheless. The mercilessness of the monsoon rains and climate were evident on this short boat ride as the channel was surrounded by high river banks of mud, soil and fallen flora. It was chaos both in the jungle above and around us (as to our amusement, our own boat got stuck in the mud along with another causing a boat traffic jam).
Boat ride through the jungle river
The day ended with a feast fit for a king (or even an army of kings) as the banquet consisted of all sorts of mouth-watering delicacies like grilled elephant-fish, spring rolls, fried rice, steamed veggies, sweet and sour broth filled with prawns and mushrooms, and watermelon for dessert. We lounged and absorbed the river-side scenery, leisurely exploring the rest of the island on our own to walk off our enormous lunch before packing back on the boat to enjoy a fresh coconut water drink.

Hotpot served with lunch
The ride back to the campus was a quiet affair, as most of the group was passed out the moment they sat down, lulled to sleep by the rumbling of the moving bus. Although, it was quite a rowdy scene when we found out clandestine photos of us sleeping were being taken. These photos are sure to be quite a hilarious addition to our photo album.

I believe this journey has helped our group discover another side of the aspiration and tenacity that defines the Vietnamese culture. It is ironic that we discovered these themes and attributes on a more universal and tourist-y expedition. The people and places that I have seen so far in Vietnam have been defined by the motifs of a symbiotic relationship between the ruthless jungle and its modern and civilized counterpart. It was evident not only in the bustling city where we often go for dinner but also in the Mekong River Delta, it is clear that the thick and winding roots (figuratively and literally) run strong through both the concrete and tropical jungle, as well as the people that call it home. — Veronika

Tuesday, February 6, 2018

Minimum Wage Policy Conference

Today we were honored to be invited to join leading scholars, researchers, economists, and activists for the Vietnamese Minimum Wage conference hosted at TDTU. At this two day conference, scholars and researchers discussed the economics and logistics behind the setting and effectiveness of a minimum wage policy. Some presentations focused on theoretical research about the effects of minimum wage, including findings that generally increasing the minimum wage does not lead to significant job loss. Other presentations detailed research on the effects of previous minimum wage increases compiled from interviews with Vietnamese workers.

The overwhelming consensus was that Vietnam needs to set a minimum wage that is also a living wage, providing workers and their families with the means to a decent standard of living, and shrinking the wage gap and growing inequality that Vietnamese citizens are facing. The most difficult part of this discourse is how best to go about doing this. Many scholars agreed that the policies must shift away from minimum wage policy and towards the establishment of autonomous unions and collective bargaining. Unfortunately, because of the current labor relations system in Vietnam, autonomous unions and collective bargaining are not a viable option. Therefore, many scholars professed their belief that a higher minimum wage must be set by the government, coupled with more stringent enforcement in order to protect the most vulnerable of Vietnamese workers.

Veronika speaking at the Minimum Wage Conference
Later in the evening, we attended our first argumentation and debate class. During class, we collaborated with Vietnamese students in order to practice and sharpen our argumentation, persuasion, and public speaking skills. The class offers a great chance for Vietnamese students to practice their English speaking skills. We learned the skeleton of how to form an effective argument, which includes logos, pathos, and ethos. We then practiced a fun and light debate exercise to ease us into the practice of argumentation and persuasion.


Debate Workshop

It was a long, tiring day, many of our peers retired for the night to rest up for the next day of activities, but Nate, Veronica, and I accompanied some TDTU students to an authentic Vietnamese restaurant for some sour Pho. The food was delicious and we all finished our dishes in a matter of minutes. — Devon

Saturday, February 3, 2018

A Library Tour and Soccer Surprise!

We started the day off right with a tour of TDTU’s new and esteemed library and were directed to all the individual and collaborative hot-spots to study.  The library consisted of eight floors in total and included a movie screening area, presentation and conference rooms, Vietnamese and English collections, and a book shower station! In efforts to preserve the nice amenities, strict rules were enforced like no food or drink and no outside shoes, so we were given approved slippers.

Next, we had a collaborative lecture led by Mr. Fincher and Mrs. Vinh that detailed the disconnects in CSR, and what steps might need to be taken to mitigate these unethical gaps. Mrs. Vinh then explained her intriguing research thesis on how to begin improving collective bargaining within a workforce, and how current laws are aspirational with few efforts of government implementation. 

Lecture with Mrs. Vinh

Lunch was held at one of the four campus canteens afterwards, and the meal definitely did not resemble Cornell Dining, but was just as delicious. 

After the full, educational day, the TDTU students took us to the opening ceremonies of a city-wide football tournament hosted at TDTU. The game was televised and we were seated in the VIP section right behind a famous football player! The game was spirited and to no one’s surprise, TDTU came out the champion.  

Seating in the VIP Section for the Football Match

Nguyen Hue Walking Street

We had a dinner at a delicious restaurant in District 1 and digested our feast by taking a stroll down the famous Nguyen Hue walking street in District 1. — Olivia